The Argyle Pattern: A Short History and How to Wear It

Few patterns are as instantly recognisable as argyle. Overlapping diamonds in two or three colours, crossed by fine diagonal lines, it has been knitted into socks and jumpers for well over a century. It has been worn by Highland soldiers, Edwardian sportsmen, a fashionable Prince of Wales, generations of golfers and countless country gentlemen. And it has never quite gone out of style.

This guide tells the story of argyle, explains how the pattern is made and how it differs from Fair Isle, and offers practical advice on wearing argyle jumpers and socks and caring for them.

What is argyle?

The argyle pattern is built from three elements:

Diamonds, sometimes called lozenges, arranged in a diagonal grid, usually in two alternating colours.
A background colour behind them.
Thin diagonal lines, called overchecks or rakers, crossing the diamonds in a third colour.

The overlapping layers give argyle a sense of depth, as if one pattern is laid over another. That layered look is the clue to its origins.

From tartan to diamonds

The pattern takes its name from Argyll, a county on the west coast of Scotland and the historic heartland of the Campbell family. It is generally linked to the tartans of the Campbells, whose patterns of crossing bands and lines were translated into diamond shapes when they were knitted rather than woven.

In the Highlands, men wore kilts with long, knitted woollen stockings known as hose. Because tartan cloth is woven, its square checks could not easily be reproduced in knitting, but knitters could create a similar effect with diagonal blocks of colour. These "tartan hose" became part of Highland dress, and later of the uniforms of Highland regiments, worn with the kilt.

Argyle goes south

For most of the nineteenth century, argyle remained mostly a pattern for socks worn with Highland dress. That changed after the First World War.

In the 1920s, Scottish knitwear makers began knitting argyle into jumpers and sleeveless pullovers as well as socks, at a time when sportswear was becoming fashionable. Golf in particular was booming, and golfers wore knitted jumpers and long socks with plus fours. Argyle, with its bold, sporty look, was perfect.

The fashion was given a royal push by Edward, Prince of Wales, the future Edward VIII. He was one of the most photographed men in the world and a style leader of his day, and his love of patterned knitwear, including argyle and Fair Isle, made both patterns hugely popular.

Argyle through the decades

Argyle has drifted in and out of fashion ever since. It was a mainstay of the golf course and the country wardrobe through the middle of the twentieth century, was picked up by American college "preppy" style, and has been revived again and again by designers. But in the British countryside, it never really went away. An argyle jumper under a waxed jacket, or argyle socks with brogues, remains a classic, comfortable country look.

How argyle is knitted

Argyle is traditionally knitted using a technique called intarsia. Instead of carrying all the colours across the back of the work, as in Fair Isle, the knitter uses a separate length of yarn for each block of colour, twisting the yarns together where the colours meet to avoid holes. The diagonal lines are often added afterwards, either knitted in or embroidered on top in a technique called duplicate stitch.

Hand-knitting argyle is slow, careful work, which is why hand-knitted argyle socks were once prized gifts. Today most argyle is knitted by machine, but the principle is the same.

Argyle or Fair Isle?

The two are often confused, but they are quite different.

Argyle uses large blocks of colour in a diamond grid, with fine overcheck lines. It is usually knitted in intarsia.
Fair Isle comes from Fair Isle, a tiny island in the Shetlands, and uses horizontal bands of small, repeating motifs in many colours, with only two colours used in any one row. The unused colour is carried across the back of the work, which makes the fabric thick and warm.

How to wear an argyle jumper

Argyle is a confident pattern, and the key to wearing it well is to let it be the only pattern in the outfit.

Keep everything else plain. Plain trousers, cords or moleskins and a plain or very subtly checked shirt.
Show a collar. A shirt collar worn under a crew-neck or V-neck argyle jumper is the classic combination.
Layer it under outerwear. Argyle looks excellent under a waxed jacket, a tweed jacket or a quilted gilet on a cold walk. Read what to wear for a country walk in autumn.
Choose earthy colours. Browns, greens, navy, cream and rust look natural in the country and are easier to wear than bright colours.
Mind the fit. A jumper should sit at or just below the belt, with sleeves ending at the wrist.

How to wear argyle socks

Socks are the quietest way to wear argyle, and the way it began.

With brogues and cords: a flash of argyle between hem and shoe is a nice detail.
With breeks or plus fours: long argyle socks, worn to just below the knee, are the traditional look for shooting and golf.
Under wellingtons: long wool socks stop boots rubbing and keep feet warm on cold mornings.
Match a colour in the sock to your trousers or jumper to tie the outfit together.

For thick socks under boots, see our racing green and burgundy bamboo boot socks, with a reinforced heel and toe.

Caring for argyle knitwear

Good knitwear lasts for years with the right care. Always read the care label first.

Wash less. Air knitwear between wears; wool resists odour and rarely needs frequent washing.
Wash cool and gently. Turn the jumper inside out and use the wool or hand-wash cycle at 30°C or below with a wool detergent, or hand wash.
Never wring. Roll the jumper in a towel to press out water.
Dry flat. Lay it on a towel, reshape it gently, and leave it to dry away from direct heat. Never hang a wet jumper, as it will stretch.
Fold, don't hang. Store knitwear folded in a drawer or on a shelf, as hangers stretch the shoulders.
Deal with pilling. Remove bobbles with a wool comb or fabric shaver.
Protect against moths. Store clean, with cedar or lavender.

Argyle as a gift

Argyle socks are one of the most traditional gifts there is, practical, affordable and easy to wrap. An argyle jumper makes a more generous present for anyone who loves a classic country look. See more ideas in our country Christmas gift guide.