Autumn Garden Jobs: A Checklist for October and November

Fallen autumn leaves on the ground in a garden

Autumn is one of the busiest and most satisfying times of year in the garden. Summer's growth is fading, the soil is still warm, and there is a long list of jobs that will set the garden up for winter and for a better spring. A few afternoons spent outside in October and November, in the low golden light with the smell of leaves and woodsmoke, save a great deal of work later on.

This checklist works through the garden area by area: lawns, leaves, bulbs, borders, dahlias and tender plants, roses and shrubs, trees and hedges, fruit, vegetables, pots, the greenhouse, tools, wildlife and planning for next year.

Lawns

Rake out thatch and moss in early autumn (scarifying), while the grass is still growing and can recover.
Aerate compacted areas by pushing a garden fork into the lawn every 10 to 15cm and wiggling it, to let air and water reach the roots.
Apply an autumn lawn feed, which is lower in nitrogen than spring feeds, to strengthen roots for winter.
Raise the mower blades and cut less often. Give the lawn a final light trim on a dry day in late autumn.
Keep leaves off the lawn, where they block light and encourage disease.

Leaves and leaf mould

Falling leaves are a job and a gift at once.

Rake leaves off lawns, paths and steps, where they smother grass and become slippery.
Clear leaves from ponds, gutters and drains.
Make leaf mould. Pile leaves into a simple wire-netting cage, or pack them into black bin bags with a few holes punched in, dampen them and tie the tops. Leave them in a corner for one to two years, and they turn into dark, crumbly leaf mould, an excellent soil conditioner and mulch.
Leave some leaves under hedges and in borders, where they shelter insects and hedgehogs.

Spring bulbs

Autumn is bulb-planting season.

September and October: daffodils, crocus, alliums, muscari and hyacinths.
Late October and November: tulips, which are best planted once the soil has cooled.

Read our full guide to planting spring bulbs in pots.

Borders and perennials

Cut back perennials that have collapsed or turned mushy, such as hostas, day lilies and peonies.
Leave the ones that stand well. Seedheads of grasses, teasels, sedums, echinacea and alliums look beautiful in frost, provide shelter for insects and feed birds through the winter. Cut them back in late winter instead.
Divide overgrown clumps of perennials such as hardy geraniums and asters while the soil is still warm.
Mulch bare soil with compost or leaf mould to protect it and feed it over winter.
Weed thoroughly before winter, so beds start clean in spring.

Dahlias and tender plants

Dahlias: once the first frost blackens the foliage, either lift the tubers, dry them and store them somewhere cool and frost-free, or, in milder, well-drained gardens, cut them down and cover the crowns with a thick mulch.
Tender perennials such as pelargoniums, fuchsias and salvias: move them into a greenhouse, conservatory or porch before the first frosts, or take cuttings.
Bring in tender pot plants such as citrus and olives in colder areas, or wrap them in fleece.

Roses and shrubs

Shorten long stems on roses by around a third, to stop winter winds rocking the plants and loosening their roots. Leave the main pruning until late winter.
Clear fallen rose leaves, especially if they show black spot, to reduce disease next year.
Plant new shrubs while the soil is warm and moist.

Trees and hedges

Plant bare-root trees, roses and hedging from November. Bare-root plants are cheaper than potted ones and establish well when planted in the dormant season, as long as the ground isn't frozen or waterlogged.
Give hedges a final trim in early autumn, if needed, once nesting birds have finished.
Check tree ties and stakes before winter storms.

Fruit

Harvest apples and pears. An apple is ripe when it comes away easily with a gentle twist.
Store sound fruit somewhere cool, dark and airy, wrapped individually in newspaper or laid out so they don't touch. Check regularly and remove any that rot.
Leave some windfalls on the ground for blackbirds, thrushes and winter visitors such as fieldfares and redwings.
Clear fallen, diseased fruit from under trees to reduce disease.

Vegetables

Plant garlic in October and November for harvesting next summer. It needs a cold spell to form good bulbs.
Sow hardy broad beans in November for an early crop.
Plant overwintering onions and shallots.
Clear spent crops and add them to the compost heap.
Cover bare beds with a mulch of compost or manure, or sow a green manure, to protect and enrich the soil over winter.

Pots and containers

Raise pots on pot feet, so water drains freely and pots don't freeze to the ground and crack.
Group pots together against a sheltered wall for protection.
Wrap vulnerable pots in hessian or bubble wrap in very cold areas.
Plant up winter pots with violas, cyclamen, ivy, heuchera and bulbs underneath.
Protect pots from slugs. A band of wool around the pot deters them without chemicals. Our Wool Pot Scarf is a 5m roll of 100% British wool.

Our Hoff terracotta pot is a classic shape for bulbs and winter planting.

The greenhouse

Clean the glass inside and out to let in as much winter light as possible.
Wash down staging and pots to remove pests and disease.
Check heaters before the first frost.
Ventilate on mild days to prevent mould.

Tools and equipment

Clean tools, removing soil and sap from spades, forks, hoes and secateurs.
Sharpen blades on secateurs, loppers and shears.
Oil metal parts with an oily rag to prevent rust, and rub linseed oil into wooden handles.
Drain and store hoses before the first hard frost.
Service the mower once the last cut is done.
Install a water butt to catch winter rain for next summer.

Wildlife

Feed the birds. As natural food runs short, put up feeders and keep them clean. Read how to feed garden birds in winter.
Put up nest boxes now, ready for spring.
Make a log pile in a quiet corner for beetles, fungi and hedgehogs.
Check bonfire piles for hedgehogs before lighting, or build the bonfire on the day you burn it.
Leave a wild corner of long grass and leaves.
Net ponds to catch falling leaves, and float a ball to keep a hole open in frosty weather.