The ploughman's lunch is one of the great British plates, and one of the simplest. A hunk of good bread, a generous wedge of cheese, something sharp and pickled, a crisp apple and a pat of butter. There is no cooking involved, and nothing clever about it. Its success depends entirely on the quality of what goes on the plate. Done well, it is one of the most satisfying lunches there is.
This guide covers the history of the ploughman's, how to choose each element, a quick recipe for pickled onions, regional and seasonal variations, quantities and how to pack it for a picnic or a day out.
A little history
Bread and cheese have been the midday meal of British farm workers for centuries. Labourers in the fields would carry bread, cheese and perhaps an onion, wrapped in a cloth, and eat it in the shade of a hedge at midday. It was cheap, filling and needed no cooking.
The name "ploughman's lunch" as we know it on pub menus, however, is largely a twentieth-century creation. In the 1950s and 1960s, as rationing ended, there were campaigns to encourage pubs to serve simple cheese lunches and to promote British cheese. A plate of bread, cheese and pickle, given a rustic name that evoked the countryside, proved enormously popular. It has been a fixture of pub menus ever since.
So the ploughman's is both very old and quite new: an ancient way of eating, given a modern name.
The bread
The bread matters as much as the cheese. Choose a crusty loaf with a good chewy crumb, bought or baked the same day.
- Farmhouse white or a bloomer is traditional.
- Sourdough has a tangy flavour and robust crust that stands up well to strong cheese.
- Granary or wholemeal adds nuttiness.
Serve it torn or in thick slices, never thin. If the loaf is for tomorrow too, keep it in a breathable bag. See how to keep bread fresh.
The butter
Good salted butter, at room temperature so it spreads easily. Take it out of the fridge an hour before.
The cheese
A strong, mature farmhouse Cheddar is the classic choice. Its sharp, deep flavour stands up to pickle and onion. But a ploughman's is a good way to explore British cheese. Other excellent choices include:
- Stilton, for a richer, blue ploughman's.
- Double Gloucester, mellow and buttery, a fine choice in the Cotswolds.
- Red Leicester, nutty and mild.
- Wensleydale or Lancashire, crumbly and fresh.
- Caerphilly, light and lemony.
Allow a generous wedge, around 100g per person, and take it out of the fridge an hour before serving so it reaches room temperature. Cold cheese tastes of little. For more on choosing cheese, see our guide to putting together a proper cheese board.
The pickles
Something sharp and sweet cuts through the richness of the cheese.
- Brown pickle, chunky and tangy, is the pub classic.
- Chutney, such as apple, onion or tomato, made at the end of summer.
- Pickled onions, sharp and crunchy.
- Piccalilli, a bright yellow mustard pickle of cauliflower and vegetables.
Quick pickled red onions
If you have no pickled onions in the cupboard, these are ready in an hour.
- Thinly slice one red onion and put it in a clean jar.
- Warm 100ml cider vinegar or white wine vinegar with 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 teaspoon salt until dissolved.
- Pour over the onion, add a few peppercorns and a bay leaf, and leave for at least an hour.
- Keep in the fridge and use within a week or two.
The fresh things
Freshness and crunch balance the bread, cheese and pickle.
- An apple, crisp and sharp, cut into wedges just before serving.
- Celery sticks, a classic partner to cheese.
- Radishes, watercress, chicory leaves or a few salad leaves.
- Tomatoes in summer.
Good additions
A ploughman's can be as simple or as generous as you like. Popular additions include:
- A thick slice of ham on the bone.
- A wedge of pork pie.
- A Scotch egg or a hard-boiled egg.
- Coleslaw.
- A small bowl of crisps.
Seasonal variations
- Spring: radishes, spring onions and young salad leaves.
- Summer: ripe tomatoes, cucumber and a soft goat's cheese.
- Autumn: pears, figs, walnuts and a new season's chutney.
- Winter and Christmas: Stilton, celery, grapes and leftover ham.
How to lay it out
A ploughman's is best served on a wooden board, which looks right and lets everything sit generously side by side.
- Start with the cheese and the bread, the largest elements.
- Add small bowls or ramekins for the pickle, chutney and onions.
- Add the butter in a dish.
- Fill the gaps with the apple, celery and salad.
- Add any meat, pie or eggs.
Don't arrange it too neatly. A ploughman's should look abundant and relaxed, not styled. A round board such as the Amba 38cm serving board is the right size for two. For a crowd, use a long board like the General Store 50cm board, or the Kora acacia board. Give each cheese its own knife. Our acacia cheese board and knife set is neat for a smaller lunch.
Quantities per person
- Bread: two or three thick slices, or a quarter of a small loaf.
- Cheese: around 100g.
- Pickle and chutney: a couple of tablespoons.
- Half an apple and a stick or two of celery.
- Any extras, such as ham or pie, to taste.
Packing a ploughman's for a picnic
A ploughman's is the perfect picnic, as nothing needs to be kept hot.
- Wrap cheese in waxed paper rather than plastic.
- Take the loaf whole and tear it on the spot.
- Pack pickles and chutney in small jars with tight lids.
- Cut apples at the last minute so they don't brown, and take a small knife.
- Take a board, which doubles as a table, and a tea towel.
- Bring a flask of tea or a bottle of apple juice.
Combine it with a walk. Our guide to a weekend in the Cotswolds has some good routes.
Frequently asked questions
What is in a traditional ploughman's lunch?
Bread, butter, cheese (usually Cheddar), pickle, pickled onions and an apple. Ham, pork pie and salad are common additions.
Why is it called a ploughman's lunch?
It evokes the simple bread and cheese meal of farm workers in the fields, though the name became popular on pub menus in the mid-twentieth century.
Can I make a ploughman's in advance?
Yes. Lay out the cheese, pickles and butter an hour ahead, and add the bread and cut apple just before serving.