How to Wash and Care for a Wool Throw

Three folded wool blankets in grey, green and white

Wool is one of the most forgiving materials you can own. It resists dirt and odour, it rarely needs washing, and with a little care a good throw will outlast most of the furniture it sits on. But wool also has two great enemies: heat combined with agitation, which shrinks and felts it, and moths, which eat it. Avoid those and you are most of the way there.

This guide covers everything, from everyday airing to a full wash, drying, dealing with pilling and stains, and storing throws safely over summer.

Why wool rarely needs washing

Wool fibres have a natural, slightly waxy coating and a scaly surface that makes it harder for dirt to sink in. Wool also absorbs moisture vapour and releases it again, which helps it resist the build-up of smells. In practice, this means a throw that is aired regularly can go a long time between washes. Washing less is also the single best way to keep a throw looking new, as every wash takes a little out of the fibre.

Step one: always read the label

Before doing anything else, find the care label and follow it. Some wool throws are machine washable on a wool cycle; others are hand wash only; a few are dry clean only, often because of the way they are woven or finished. The label always wins over general advice, including ours. If the label has been cut off, treat the throw as hand wash only.

Everyday care

Air it

Every few weeks, hang your throw outside on a dry, breezy day, ideally in light shade rather than strong sun, which can fade colours over time. An hour or two is enough to freshen it and let any smells blow away. If you can't hang it outside, drape it over a chair by an open window.

Shake and brush

Give the throw a good shake outside to remove dust, crumbs and loose fibres. Then go over it lightly with a soft clothes brush, working in the direction of the nap. A rubber glove or a damp hand run over the surface is a quick way to lift dog hair.

Rotate it

If a throw always sits in the same place, the same areas get worn and faded. Turn it round or swap it between rooms now and then.

Dealing with spills and stains

Speed is everything. A fresh spill is far easier to remove than a dried-in stain.

  1. Blot up as much as you can with a clean, dry cloth or kitchen paper. Don't rub, which pushes the liquid deeper and roughens the fibres.
  2. Dab the area with cool water and a little wool detergent on a cloth, working from the outside of the mark inwards so it doesn't spread.
  3. Blot again with clean water to rinse, then with a dry towel.
  4. Leave to dry flat, away from direct heat.

Avoid hot water, biological detergents and bleach on wool. Enzymes in biological detergents are designed to break down proteins, and wool is a protein fibre. For mud, let it dry completely first, then brush it off; wet mud just smears.

When a throw needs a proper wash

Most throws only need a full wash once or twice a year, or after a spill that can't be spot cleaned. Choose a dry, mild day so the throw can dry quickly.

Hand washing

  1. Fill a clean bath or large basin with cool or lukewarm water, no warmer than 30°C. Add a small amount of detergent made specifically for wool and swirl to dissolve.
  2. Lower the throw into the water and press it down gently so it is fully submerged. Let it soak for ten to fifteen minutes.
  3. Gently press and squeeze the throw in the water. Don't rub, twist or scrub.
  4. Drain the water and refill with clean water at the same temperature to rinse. Sudden changes in temperature encourage felting. Repeat until the water runs clear.
  5. Press the water out with your hands. Never wring a wool throw.
  6. Lay the throw on a large, clean towel, roll the two up together, and press down along the roll to remove more water. Repeat with a dry towel if necessary.

Machine washing

Only machine wash if the label says you can. Use the wool or hand-wash programme, with cold or 30°C water, a wool detergent and the lowest spin speed. Wash the throw on its own so it has room to move freely, and take it out as soon as the cycle ends. If your machine has no wool cycle, hand wash instead.

Drying a wool throw

Drying is where most throws are ruined.

  • Dry flat or over an airer, spread out as evenly as possible to keep its shape.
  • Keep it away from direct heat: radiators, fires, Agas and strong sunlight. Heat shrinks wool and can make it feel harsh.
  • Never tumble dry unless the label specifically allows it. The combination of heat and movement can shrink a throw dramatically in a single cycle.
  • Turn it every few hours so it dries evenly.

A thick throw can take a day or more to dry fully. Make sure it is completely dry before folding it away, or it can develop a musty smell.

Pilling and bobbles

Pilling happens when short, loose fibres work their way to the surface and tangle into small balls. It is most common in the first weeks of use and on areas that are rubbed, such as where a throw sits against the sofa arm. It is not a sign of poor quality, and it usually lessens over time as the loose fibres are removed.

Remove bobbles with a wool comb, a fabric shaver or a de-pilling stone, working gently over the surface. Don't pull them off by hand, as that can draw out more fibre.

Keeping moths away

Clothes moth larvae feed on wool and other animal fibres. They prefer dark, undisturbed places and are attracted to fibres that carry traces of sweat, skin or food. The best protection is simple:

  • Use and move your throws. Moths dislike being disturbed and rarely attack things in daily use.
  • Store throws clean. Always wash or air a throw before putting it away for the summer.
  • Use deterrents. Cedar wood and lavender sachets help keep moths away. Refresh them each season.
  • Check stored throws every few months, particularly in spring and summer when moths are most active.

If you find moth damage, wash the throw, vacuum the cupboard thoroughly, and check everything else stored nearby.

Storing throws out of season

When the weather warms up and the heavier throws come off the sofa, store them carefully.

  • Make sure they are clean and completely dry.
  • Fold them loosely to avoid hard creases.
  • Store them in breathable cotton bags, a blanket box or a lidded basket, never in sealed plastic, which traps moisture.
  • Add a cedar block or lavender sachet.

A large woven basket such as the Family Rattan Basket keeps throws tidy and within reach, and lets air circulate.

Caring for recycled wool and merino

Recycled wool throws are usually dense and robust, and respond well to airing and brushing. Merino is finer and softer, so be particularly gentle when washing and avoid any rubbing. Whatever the fibre, the label is your guide.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I wash a wool throw?

As rarely as possible. Air it regularly and spot clean spills, and a full wash once or twice a year is usually plenty.

Can I put a wool throw in the dryer?

Only if the label says so. Otherwise, never. It is the quickest way to shrink wool.

My throw has shrunk. Can I save it?

Sometimes a little. Soak it in lukewarm water with a generous amount of hair conditioner for half an hour, then gently stretch it back into shape and dry it flat. Badly felted wool can't be fully restored.

How do I get rid of a musty smell?

Air it outside on a dry, breezy day. If the smell persists, wash it as above and make sure it dries fully and quickly.

A quick reference

  • Air often, wash rarely.
  • Cool water and wool detergent only.
  • Never wring; never tumble dry unless the label allows.
  • Dry flat, away from heat.
  • Store clean, dry and somewhere breathable.

Looking for a new throw? Read our wool throw buying guide.