Waxed Jacket Buying Guide: What to Look For

Man walking in English woodland wearing a waxed jacket

The waxed jacket is the uniform of the British countryside. It is worn by farmers and gamekeepers, dog walkers and weekend visitors, on muddy lanes, at point-to-points and outside country pubs. A good one will see you through decades of rain, wind and brambles, and look better every year. But not all waxed jackets are the same, and the details make a real difference to how well a jacket works and how long it lasts.

This guide explains how waxed cotton came about, why it works, and everything to consider before you buy, from finish and fit to pockets, collar and colour.

A short history of waxed cotton

Long before modern waterproofs, sailors needed sails and clothing that would keep out sea spray and rain. In the nineteenth century, they treated sailcloth with linseed oil, which made it water-resistant but stiff, heavy and prone to yellowing and cracking in the cold.

Around the start of the twentieth century, manufacturers in Britain developed a better method: impregnating tightly woven cotton with paraffin wax. Waxed cotton was lighter and more flexible than oiled cloth, stayed supple in the cold and didn't yellow. It was soon used for fishermen's coats, motorcycling jackets, military clothing and, above all, country jackets for farmers and outdoor workers.

More than a century later, despite all the advances in synthetic waterproofs, the waxed jacket remains a classic, because it does something synthetics don't: it can be cleaned, re-waxed and repaired, and kept going almost indefinitely.

Why waxed cotton works

It sheds rain. Wax fills the gaps in the cotton weave, so water beads and runs off.
It blocks wind. A waxed jacket is a superb windbreaker on an exposed hillside.
It is tough. Tightly woven cotton resists thorns, brambles and barbed wire far better than lightweight synthetics.
It can be renewed. When the wax wears thin, you re-wax it and it is as good as before.
It ages beautifully. Waxed cotton creases and softens with wear, developing a patina unique to its owner.

Waxed cotton does have limits. It is not as breathable as a modern technical shell, so it can feel warm on a steep climb, and it needs re-waxing roughly once a year. For most country use, though, its benefits far outweigh these.

The finish

Antique or vintage finish: slightly mottled and uneven in colour, as if already worn. It hides scuffs and marks well and looks lived-in from day one. Our Barker Antique Wax Jacket has this finish.
Smooth or classic finish: a more even colour and a smarter look when new, which softens and mellows with wear.
Light wax: some jackets use less wax for a drier, less tacky feel, at the cost of slightly less water resistance.

Weight of cloth

Waxed cottons come in different weights. Heavier cloth is tougher and more protective, and suits working outdoors in all weathers. Lighter cloth is more comfortable for everyday wear and travel, and easier to move in. For most people, a mid-weight cloth is the best all-round choice.

Length

Short or hip length: ends around the hip. Easy to move in, comfortable for driving and cycling, and the most versatile for everyday wear.
Mid-thigh or field length: covers more of the body and keeps the tops of the legs drier in heavy rain. The traditional choice for walking and working in the field.
Long coats: once used for riding, and still the most protective, but less practical for everyday wear.

Getting the fit right

A waxed jacket is an outer layer, so it must fit over what you will wear underneath on a cold day.

Try it on over a thick jumper or gilet, the bulkiest layer you are likely to wear beneath.
Lift your arms above your head. The jacket shouldn't ride up too far or pull at the back.
Cross your arms and reach forward, as if opening a gate. The back shouldn't feel tight across the shoulders, and the sleeves should still cover your wrists.
Do it up fully. There should be room to breathe and move comfortably.

Waxed cotton doesn't stretch, so a jacket that is snug in the shop will feel tight once you are wearing layers. If you are between sizes, size up.

Details that make a difference

Collar

A corduroy collar is traditional, soft against the neck and comfortable when turned up against the wind. Some collars have a throat tab or strap that fastens across to seal out wind and rain.

Pockets

Large bellows or patch pockets on the front, with flaps and poppers, for gloves, maps, dog leads and treats.
Hand-warmer pockets, lined with soft fabric, behind or beside the main pockets. Indispensable on cold mornings.
An inside pocket for a phone and wallet, out of the rain.
A game pocket, a large pocket across the back inside the jacket, traditional on shooting and field jackets and handy for carrying anything bulky.

Fastenings

A strong two-way zip lets you open the jacket from the bottom when you sit down or get into the car. A storm flap with poppers over the zip keeps out wind and rain.

Cuffs

Storm cuffs, an inner knitted or corduroy cuff inside the sleeve, stop rain running up your arms.

Lining

A cotton lining, often in a tartan or check, is warm, comfortable and the classic finishing touch. The Barker has a tartan lining and a corduroy collar. Some jackets can take a zip-in quilted liner for extra warmth in winter.

Hood

A hood is invaluable in heavy rain. A detachable or stowaway hood gives you the choice.

Colour

Olive and sage green: the countryside classics, blending into the landscape.
Brown: warm, versatile and very good at hiding mud.
Navy: smarter and works equally well in town and country.
Black: sleek and modern, and easy to wear with anything.

The Barker comes in black, navy and brown.

What to wear underneath

Layering is the key to comfort. In autumn, a shirt and a light jumper are often enough. In winter, add a quilted gilet or a thicker knit. Read what to wear for a country walk in autumn for a full guide.

Your first weeks with a new jacket

A new waxed jacket can feel stiff and slightly tacky, and may smell faintly of wax. Both soften with wear. Wax can transfer onto pale car seats and furniture, so be mindful of light upholstery for the first few weeks.

Looking after it

A waxed jacket needs simple, regular care. Never machine wash it or dry clean it, both of which strip the wax. Sponge off mud with cold water, dry it naturally and re-wax roughly once a year. Our full guide, how to care for a waxed jacket, takes you through it step by step.

Frequently asked questions

Are waxed jackets fully waterproof?

A well-waxed jacket is highly water-resistant and will keep you dry through most British weather. Seams and areas where the wax wears thin need regular re-waxing to stay protective.